I’ve always believed that some of the best travel experiences happen in the small towns that sit just a little off the beaten path. On a recent trip, I set my sights on Gananoque, Ontario—the so-called “Gateway to the Thousand Islands.” Settled on the banks of the St. Lawrence River, this vital little town combines the beauty of the water with history, adventure, and plenty of warm Canadian hospitality.
Checking In
I arrived in Gananoque in the late afternoon, after a three-hour drive from Toronto. My base for the trip was the Comfort Inn & Suites Thousand Islands Harbour District, conveniently located just steps from the Gananoque Municipal Marina and a short walk to Joel Stone Beach.
The Play’s the Thing
After settling in, I set out for an evening at the Thousand Islands Playhouse, a local theater perched right on the waterfront. That night’s performance of The Drawer Boy was captivating. What made the evening even more special was the intermission. Guests stepped onto the balcony to see the sunset, and we ooh-ed and awed at the softly glowing sky. The theatre presents a majority of Canadian productions, with titles that target both adults and families. Plays run from summer to late fall. I was told that a second smaller venue, the Firehall Theatre, runs shows, community events, and concerts throughout the year.
A Thousand Islands Adventure
After the hotel’s complimentary hot breakfast, I walked down to the City Cruises dock at the foot of Main Street. With my passport and water bottle in hand, I was ready for a five-hour Thousand Islands cruise with a stop at Boldt Castle on the U.S. side of the border.
There’s something magical about gliding past the islands—some large enough to hold grand mansions, others barely big enough for a single tree. Our boat weaved between Canadian and American waters, the border invisible and the scenery captivating.
The highlight was stepping onto Heart Island, home to Boldt Castle. Built in the early 1900s by millionaire George Boldt for his wife, the castle is a storybook mansion with turrets, stained-glass windows, and even heart-shaped details hidden throughout the property. Sadly, Boldt’s wife passed away before the castle was completed, and for decades it fell into disrepair. Today, thanks to ongoing restorations funded by visitor admission fees, much of the castle has been restored to its original grandeur. Standing there, I couldn’t help but feel the bittersweet mix of romance and history that lingers in the air.
A View from Above
Back in Gananoque, I traded the water for the skies and hopped on a chopper with 1000 Islands Helicopter Tours. The 30-minute scenic flight took off from a small airfield just north of town. I felt a rush of excitement as the ground fell away beneath us. From above, the islands looked like emeralds scattered across a sapphire surface, connected by the impressive Thousand Islands International Bridge, which spans the river between Canada and the U.S. It was one of those bucket-list moments—the kind you know you’ll remember forever.
That evening, I joined locals for dinner at the Maple Leaf Restaurant, a cozy spot on King Street East run by Czech owners. Their schnitzel is legendary, and after a day of sightseeing, it hit the spot. Gananoque’s downtown is full of dining options, but this one stood out for its hearty meals and welcoming atmosphere.
Paddling the Rideau
On my third day, I traded engines and propellers for paddles. About 20 minutes from Gananoque lies Chaffey’s Lock, part of the UNESCO World Heritage Rideau Canal system. I joined Rideau Tours for an afternoon of kayaking, gliding across calm waters surrounded by tree-lined shores and quaint cottages. The company also offers cycling, with easy access to the Cataraqui Trail, part of the TransCanada Trail system.
There was something wonderfully restorative about paddling at my own pace, pausing now and then to watch as boats passed through the working lock system that has been operating for over 190 years. I had already eaten, but next time I’ll order a picnic lunch from the tour company and enjoy a nosh by the water after my paddle.
That night, I headed to Stonewater Gastro Pub, where live music and a lively crowd made for a perfect nightcap. Gananoque may be a small town, but it certainly doesn’t lack for entertainment.
Saying Goodbye
As I packed up to leave, I couldn’t help but feel that Gananoque had offered me the perfect blend of relaxation and adventure. From floating past castles on the St. Lawrence to soaring above the islands in a helicopter, from quiet paddles on the Rideau Canal to evenings spent enjoying theater and live music, my mind and my body felt roundly satisfied.
Gananoque may be small, but it’s a town with a big heart—much like the island castle that has come to symbolize the region. And as I drove back toward Toronto, I found myself already planning my next visit to the Thousand Islands.
A Few Tips
- For a morning coffee outing, Laverenes and Pistachio are two great local cafés.
- If you’re planning the Boldt Castle cruise, don’t forget your passport—you’ll be stepping onto American soil.
- Gananoque isn’t just about water and outdoor adventure—it’s also a town rich in history and culture. You can visit the Thousand Islands Boat Museum and the 1000 Islands History Museum to learn more about the area’s maritime past.
